Indian Dressing has come a long way. From saris in different forms and styles of draping, we now have the pavada and davani (lehanga and half sari) and of course the well-accepted salwar-kameez and dupatta set. Though along with the changing times, different regional dressing in India acquired the change with the changing urban style, all over the nation it is the salwar-kameez that is increasingly being accepted in today’s fashion world. So much so that the southern part of the country had to give way under the weight of the Punjabi suit.

With the Western look pouring in to the country, India has seen a drastic change in taste towards dressing. This change has entailed that for those who were conservative and even for those who weren't, a new style of dressing emerged called the fusion or the Indo–Western look. The Indo–Western look has gained ground particularly in the more conservative communities where the girls have started looking at dressing in a broader aspect. Thus scarves substituted dupattas for a change. But no matter how far the trend changes, there are some few forms of dressing that can’t be replaced. So there stands sari – an answer to every Indian woman’s desire of perfect attire, that stays forever in the fashion scene.

The sari certainly is a multi-purpose garment. It enhances the perfect figure and covers well the not so perfect ones. In fact the Indian woman’s figure seems to fit in so much better with the sari as compared to the straight spine of her western counterpart. The sari moulds itself in perfect understanding with the situational requirements, sometimes elegant, or practical, at other times sensual adapting itself and keeping attuned to the woman, at any point of time, in any mood or frame of mind. Draped over women across the centuries, the sari assumes a wide spectrum of meaning that is manifested in practically every single one of its turns and folds.

This flowing fabric that can spin so many silent, yet vibrant, ways of being and communicating, is a wonder in itself. The sari has been known to wipe away many a tear, whether of a despairing child or of a heartbroken woman. For years it has kept secrets of the women who peeped from within its confines, whether in anticipation or in embarrassment. The sari has taken into its folds and stride centuries of lending support to women in time of grief, or while defending, for support and even protection. This goes on.

A gently or a hastily pulled 'pallav’ (one end of the sari that goes across one shoulder to fall down the back, which differs in look as compared to the other end of sari.) could hide either a shameful blush or a face that is steeped in deceit. And the very expression of joy has not found a better representation than a vibrant, colorful sari pallav thrown to the winds. It is amazing how much the sari can speak or convey.

For instance, a pallav tied purposefully and tightly around the waist can mean business. A sari hitched up to knee–length means work in progress. While a poutingly displayed one could mean sitting pretty. In Bengal, a bunch of keys tied to the sari end and thrown a trifle too quickly over the shoulder means tempers are fraying. In fact every single emotional mood can be correctly displayed with a subtle movement of the sari.

The pallav is equally versatile in its uses - apart from being decorative, this part of the sari has been used cross-purposefully, right from dusting the home to wiping of hands and even the noses of little ones, or for pressing gently on a wound, or heating it for use as a compress for soothing an irritable eye. Pieces of sari cloth have been torn and used as bandages and the sari itself as a sheet to keep out the cold and rain. The sari has nurtured and nourished.

The sari camouflages flaws as much as it highlights the curves. Today a sari can be worn for practical purposes or as a fashion statement apart from the traditional ways of wearing it, as is worn by the people in regions like Gujarat, Maharashtra, Bengal, Tamil Nadu and so on. The blouse or a ‘choli’ has never been as versatile and trendy as it is now. There are embroidered blouses, cholis, some with strings for greater ventilation, some with high cuts that are deep both in the front and in the back, all of which gives the wearer a look that can range from confident to sexy.

The sari, though basically a 5 1/2 metres of unstitched cloth before draping, actually undergoes different processes and workmanship before the finished product is made available for wear. Types of saris range from different fabrics to different weaves, styles of prints versus embroidery.

But the prints and embellishments alone don’t make a sari a kind of its own. Different weaves on different materials from various states make each sari unique to the region it comes from. Most of these exclusive saris are hand crafted on hand looms. A genuine ‘jamdani’ or ‘paithani’ sari, for instance, needs around nine to twelve months to weave. Working on a fine count brocaded sari consumes the same energy required from preparing the designs as it does preparing the yarns to weave. The genuineness of the sari comes with time as it remains a precious possession and lasts a lifetime. In silk, the Kancheepuram silk sari is a result of the long years of tradition. Made of silk and zari (gold thread), the Kancheepuram silk sari has different motifs like putta, peacock, or mango designs, These are used depending on the seasons.

Traditional designs are always a favorite. As competition emerges subtle changes in motifs and designs plays a vital role. Even the ‘ikat’ saris have an allure that cannot be denied, whether in cotton or silk. It is a technique by which the warp or weft, or both, can be tie–dyed in such a way that when woven, the pattern appears on the finished fabric. The main types of ikat include the ‘pattola’ i.e. the double–ikat silk fabric of Gujarat. The modern ikat is an amalgam of various regional styles though the weavers continue to stay close to their roots. ‘Kalamkari’ is almost synonymous with the cotton sari. In earlier times, a ‘kalam’ or brush was used to outline the design and fill in the dyes and resists, and that’s why the term kalamkari came into usage. Earlier kalamkari was a term used to refer to a technique rather than a pattern as it is now. Even today it stands for its motifs - which may be floral, geometrical or figurative. Even simple cotton saris with prints, or hand painted ones make a better choice.

In today’s practical world, from teens to working women, it is the salwar-kameez, which finds a premium place in the wardrobe for its cut, style, embellishments, fabrics and combinations. The kameez or kurta can be teamed up with churidars and dupatta. With time salwars are being replaced with pleated pants that work so well in the areas of comfort and style. Pajamas play a vital role, as they are separates that blend with kurtas and tunics.

Fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon, crepe, satin, organza, viscose-blends and jute give shape to the elegance, flow, fall and stiffness required for particular styles of salwars. A half-sleeve / full-sleeve / churi (gathered) sleeve or puff sleeve kurta makes a good choice to combine with salwars, churidars, pajamas or pants.

When it comes to skirts, Indian dressing has the century old attires like ghagra that ranges from single-layered to multi-layered styles. Even the wide-legged pants like ghararas / shararas, are an integral part of our dressing. A kameez or a kurta can be teamed up with a cape, a short jacket that has an open front or is buttoned, a sleeveless long jacket with a dupatta or odhni (cascade), or even a scarf.

From plain colored fabrics to printed ones with or without embellishments – cotton or silk thread embroidery to metal thread embroideries, using trims or cords or even hand painting, all put together are ways of enhancing the design.

With time, Indian dressing has gained a platform where fusion with western concepts is what grabs the market. Like the combination of a knit blouse with a layered and embroidered skirt, a sherwani with knit skirts… and so on - ultimately, in design there are no limits.

Heavily embroidered gaghra choli or sherwani with churidar or an embroidered sari makes a befitting costume for a bride. The elegance of Indian dressing comes out from rich fabrics like silks, cottons, brocades or from different weaving styles and the rich embroidery particular to different states.